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women's clothing	NEW vol 7. Transfer of breast and waist tucks	vol 5. Basic patterns of products with a set-in sleeve	vol 6. Modeling of collars, design of necks and fasteners	vol 8. Modeling of set-in sleeves
women's clothing	vol 1. Basic patterns of skirts. Straight, narrowed and extended skirts	vol 2. Pleated and tapered skirts	vol 3. Skirts are wedged, with flounces, with petals, with draperies	vol 4. Trousers
men's clothing	vol 1. Shirts and underpants	vol 2. Trousers	vol 3. Denim suit
children's clothing	vol 1. Underwear	vol 2. Light clothing

Ludmila Serova

Basic the technical drawing and the technical design of bra

Russian

This technical drawing is used for several years in the "Author's school Lyudmila Serova cutting and sewing". The base drawing is used for modeling bras, corsets, tight bodices for wedding and evening dresses. On Photos 1, 2 and 3 show sundress with bodice, constructed on this base drawing (work Tatyana Dyachenko).

     

Photo 1                                               Photo 2                                                        Photo 3

The article considers only the basic drawing bra. To make the actual products after perform drawing on base measurements of specific the women, it is necessary to perform modeling of bra, including to choose the form of the cups.

1. The system of measurements

Measurements shall be carried out on a woman clad in lingerie, but measurement can be carried out without a bra if breasts keeps the shape. Measurements shall be made using a tailor's cm-tape. The quality of the fit of clothing on the body depends largely on the accuracy of measurements.

Before the measurements, you must provide for themselves a notepad and pencil to record. Every measurement we recommend that you take a few times to compare the measurement results. If the bra with a belt to waist before measurements the waist line to fix the rubber band. Technical drawing must be performed on a graph paper in order to ensure the parallelism between the lines and not distort the angles. It is recommended to make patterns from tracing paper.

The table shows the measuring system to build the basic patterns of bra.

Example of the technical drawing is made for bust having the following measurements (cm):
Hgc2 = 48.0      Hgc4 = 42.5   Hgw = 38.0     Dhp = 10.0     Hva = 10.0
Bw = 3.0 (for short bra)
Bw = 20.0 (for bra, reaching to the waist line).

The symbols in the figures:

2. Drawing the grid (Fig. 1).

2.1. Draw a rectangle ABCD:
- the width of the rectangle AB = CD = Hgc2 / 2 – 3.0 = 48.0 / 2 – 3.0 = 21.0 cm
- the height of the rectangle AD = BC = Hva * 2 = 10.0 * 2 = 20.0 cm

2.2. Measure the distance Ва = Dhp – 1.0 = 10.0 – 1.0 = 9.0 cm from the point B to the left, draw the vertical dotted line from point a to the intersection with the line DC.

2.3. Divide the line segment AD into two equal parts and from the point of dividing the left horizontally draw a dotted line be up to the intersection with the line BC.

2.4. Mark the intersection point of the line segments ad and be as O.

Fig. 1

3. Drawing a cup of bra (Fig. 2).

3.1. Calculate size first tuck: Hgc2 / 10 + 1.2 = 48.0 / 10 + 1.2 = 6.0 cm, half size 6.0 / 2 = 3.0 cm. For busts that have Hgc2 more 56.0 cm, not to add 1.2 cm.

3.2. Draw 4 tuck, size tucks:
aa₁ = aa₂ = 3.0 cm
ee₁ = ee₂ = 3.0 cm
dd₁ = dd₂ = 3.0 cm
bb₁ = bb₂ = 3.0 cm
Connect by straight lines points a₁, a₂, e₁, e₂, d₁, d₂, b₁, b₂  with point O.

3.3. Measure the distance 3.0÷4.0 cm from point A down the line AD, mark point as k.

3.4. Measure the distance 1.0÷2.0 cm right horizontal from point k right horizontal, mark point as k₁.

3.5. Measure distance 3.0÷4.0 cm from point B down the line BC, mark point as k₂.

3.6. Connect the point k₁ by straight lines with points a₁ and b₁, draw lines k₁a₁ and draw lines k₁b₁.

3.7. Connect the point k₂ by straight line with point a₂, draw line k₂a₂.

3.8. Measure the distance 1.0 cm from point D right, mark point as k₃.

3.9. Measure the distance 1.0 cm from point k₃ vertically upwards, mark point as k₄.

3.10. Connect the point k₄ by straight line with point b₂, draw line k₄b₂.

3.11. Connect the point k₄ by straight line with point d₁, draw line k₄d₁.

3.12. Draw a bisector of angle d₂Ce₂ , on  the bisector measure distance of a point C  3.0÷3.5 cm, mark point as k₅.

3.13. Draw a curve smooth line through points e₂ k₅ d₂.

Fig. 2

4. Drawing the front piece of the belt bra (Fig. 3).

4.1. Make line segment from a point е₂ upwards on line е₂е₁ having a size equal a line segment е₁к₂, mark a point as P.

4.2. Measure the distance 0.5÷1.0 cm from the point P right horizontally, mark point as P₁. If clasp is ahead, measure distance 1.0 cm or more, depending on the desired width of the clasp.

4.3. Draw a vertical straight line P₁P₃ from the point P₁ down. Point P₃ is located below the line DC to distance the width of the belt under the breast, the minimum width is 3.0 cm, the maximum width - up to the waist.

4.4. Draw a straight line P₃P₄ from the point P₃ left horizontally having size equal PP₁ + Cd₂ + d₁k₄ = 1.0 + 6.0 + 8.0 = 15.0 cm.

4.5. Draw up a perpendicular P₄P₅ from the point P₄ to the intersection with the line CD.

4.6. Draw the contour line of the belt under the breast through points  P e₂ k₅ d₂ d₁ P₅ P₄ P₃ P₁ P.

Fig. 3

5. Drawing of side belt bra (Fig. 4).

5.1. Draw a rectangle A₁B₁C₁D₁.

A₁B₁ = D₁C₁ = Hgc4 - P₄P₃ = 42.5 – 15.0 = 27.5 cm

A₁D₁ = B₁C₁ = P₅P₄ + k₄b₂ + b₁k₁ = 3.0 + 6.0 + 4.0 = 13.0 cm

5.2. Measure the distance 3.0 cm from point D₁ up line D₁A₁, mark point as P₆.

5.3. Connect points P₆ and B₁ by straight dotted line, this line divide into 3 parts, from the right point of division on the perpendicular down measure distance 1.0 cm, from the left point down measure distance 0.5 cm.

5.4. Connect points B₁ (1,0) (0,5) P₆ by curve smooth line.

5.5. Measure the distance 4.0÷5.0 cm from the point P₆ to the right along the smooth curve line and draw mark. To the right of this mark for belt bra will be sewn straps of a bra.

5.6. You can reduce line segment D₁C₁ for  width of clasps, if clasp is back of bra.

Fig. 4

6. Modeling of bra with a сup of three lobes (Fig. 5, 6, 7).

6.1. Divided each line side lobes b₁O, Oe₁, b₂O, Oe₂, Od₁, Od₂  into two equal parts, define the deflection in each points of dividing on distance 0.3÷0.5 cm.  Draw smooth curve lines of side lobes through these points of deflection.

6.2. Close a tuck a₁Oa₂ .

6.3. Define the upper part of the cup of bra via contour line through points O b₁ k₁ a k₂ e₁ O. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out the two pieces bra of the base fabric and the two pieces bra of the lining fabric.

6.4. Define the side lower lobe cup of bra via contour line through points O d₁ k₄ b₂ O. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out the two pieces bra of the base fabric and the two pieces bra of the lining fabric.

6.5. Define the front lower lobe cup of bra via contour line through points O d₂ e₂ O. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by line d₂e_2. Cut out the two pieces bra of the base fabric and the two pieces bra of the lining fabric.

6.6. Define the front piece of the belt bra via contour line through points P P₁ P₃ P₄ P₅ P (Fig. 7). Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out one piece bra of the base fabric and one piece bra of the lining fabric.

6.7. Define the side piece of belt bra via contour line through points P₆ B₁ C₁ D₁ P₆ (Fig. 7). Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out two pieces bra of the base fabric.

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

7. Modeling of the cup bra having two pieces and one vertical seam (Fig. 8,9).

7.1. Divide each line side lobes of bra a₁O, Od₁, a₂O, Od₂ into two equal parts; define the deflection in each point of dividing on distance 0.3÷0.5 cm.  Draw smooth curve lines of side lobes through these deflection points.

7.2. Close tucks b₁Ob₂ and e₁Oe₂.

7.3. Define the side lobe of cup bra via contour line through points O a₁ b k₄ d₁ O. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by line k₄d_1. Cut out two pieces bra of the base fabric and two pieces bra of the lining fabric.

7.4. Define the front lobe of cup bra via contour line through points O a₂ k₂ e d₂ O. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out two pieces bra of the base fabric and two pieces bra of the lining fabric.

7.5. Drawing belt of bra, see Fig. 7.

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

8. Modeling of the belt of bra having size up to the waist line (Fig. 10, 11)

8.1. Calculate total width of tucks (TWT) on the waist line

TWT = Hgc4 - Hgw = 42.5 – 38.0 = 4.5 cm

8.2. Distribute TWT as follows:
- in a side seam at the waist line 3.0 cm (from the front part of the belt 1.5 cm and from  side part of the belt 1.5 cm),
- in the middle seam on the back 1.5 cm.
For large values of TWT on the line in the middle P₁P₃ to perform the seam and to remove part of TWT in this seam.

8.3. Make the width of the belt P₅P₄ under the chest to the waist equal Bw = 20.0 cm (Fig. 10).

8.4. Calculate the width of the side part of the belt (see paragraph 5).

A₁D₁ = B₁C₁ = P₅P₄ + k₄b₂ + b₁k₁ = 20.0 + 6.0 + 4.0 = 30.0 cm

8.5. Drawing the tucks at the waist line:
- measure the distance 1.5 cm from the point P₄ right, mark a point as M,
- point M connect with point P₅ by straight line,
- measure the distance 1.5 cm from the point C₁ left, mark a point as M₁, point M₁ connect with point B₁, by straight line,
- measure the distance 1.5 cm from the point D₁ right, mark a point as M₂, point M₂ connect with point P₆, by straight line,

8.6. Define the front part of the belt bra via contour line through points P P₁ P₃ M P₅ P (Fig.11). Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out one piece bra of the base fabric and one piece of the lining fabric.

8.7. Define the side part belt bra via contour line through points B₁ M₁ M₂ P₆ B₁. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out two pieces bra of the base fabric.

Fig. 10

Fig. 11

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Copyright © Ludmila Serova
Last modified: 17.06.2020