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7. Designing and sewing women's clothes at home | Vol. 3 Modelling and tailoring of skirts with wedge, with ruffles, with petals, with drapes | |
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1-2. Design and tailoring of children's clothes at home | Vol. 2 Children's clothing | Vol. 1 Children's underwear |
Ludmila Serova
Basic the technical drawing and the technical design of bra
This technical drawing is used for several years in the "Author's school Lyudmila Serova cutting and sewing". The base drawing is used for modeling bras, corsets, planopilaris of bodices for wedding dresses and evening gowns. On Photos 1, 2 and 3 show sundress with bodice, constructed on this base drawing (work Tatyana Dyachenko).
Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3
The article considers only the basic drawing bra. To make the actual products after perform drawing on base measurements of specific the women, it is necessary to perform modeling of bra, including to choose the form of the cups.
1. The system of measurements
Measurements shall be carried out on a woman clad in lingerie, but measurement can be carried out without a bra if breasts keeps the shape. Measurements shall be made using a tailor's cm-tape. The quality of the fit of clothing on the body depends largely on the accuracy of measurements.
Before the measurements, you must provide for themselves a notepad and pencil to record. Every measurement we recommend that you take a few times to compare the measurement results. If the bra with a belt to waist before measurements the waist line to fix the rubber band. Technical drawing must be performed on a graph paper in order to ensure the parallelism between the lines and not distort the angles. It is recommended to make patterns from tracing paper.
The table shows the measuring system to build the basic patterns of bra.
Name of measure | Symbol | How make the measurement |
1. Half the girth of the chest (2) | Hgc2 | Measure via cm-tape the distance around the body. Cm-tape goes back horizontally through the scapulae and through the rear corners of the underarm, then through highest points of women's breasts. The value is written in half size. |
2. Half the girth of the chest (4) | Hgc4 | Measure via cm-tape the distance horizontally around the torso under the base of women's breasts. The value is written in half size. |
3. Half the girth of the waist | Hgw | Measure via cm-tape the distance around the waist, which marked with a rubber band or a cord. The value is written in half size. |
4. Distance between highest points of the female breast | Dhp | Measure via cm-tape the distance horizontally in a straight line between highest points of women's breasts. The value is written in half size. |
5. Half of the vertical arc | Hva | Measure via cm-tape the distance from the base of the right breast from below up to highest points of women's breasts. The value is written completely. |
6. Belt width | Bw | Measure via cm-tape the distance from the base of the right breast to desired width of belt. The value is written completely. |
Example of the technical drawing is made for bust having the following measurements (cm):
Hgc2 = 48.0 Hgc4 = 42.5 Hgw = 38.0 Dhp = 10.0 Hva = 10.0
Bw = 3.0 (for short bra)
Bw = 20.0 (for bra, reaching to the waist line).
The symbols in the figures:
2. Drawing the grid (Fig. 1).
2.1. Draw a rectangle ABCD:
- the width of the rectangle AB = CD = Hgc2 / 2 – 3.0 = 48.0 / 2 – 3.0 = 21.0 cm
- the height of the rectangle AD = BC = Hva * 2 = 10.0 * 2 = 20.0 cm
2.2. Measure the distance Ва = Dhp – 1.0 = 10.0 – 1.0 = 9.0 cm from the point B to the left, draw the vertical dotted line from point a to the intersection with the line DC.
2.3. Divide the line segment AD into two equal parts and from the point of dividing the left horizontally draw a dotted line be up to the intersection with the line BC.
2.4. Mark the intersection point of the line segments ad and be as O.
Fig. 1
3. Drawing a cup of bra (Fig. 2).
3.1. Calculate size first tuck: Hgc2 / 10 + 1.2 = 48.0 / 10 + 1.2 = 6.0 cm, half size 6.0 / 2 = 3.0 cm. For busts that have Hgc2 more 56.0 cm, not to add 1.2 cm.
3.2. Draw 4 tuck, size tucks:
aa_{1} = aa_{2} = 3.0 cm
ee_{1} = ee_{2} = 3.0 cm
dd_{1} = dd_{2} = 3.0 cm
bb_{1} = bb_{2} = 3.0 cm
Connect by straight lines points a_{1}, a_{2}, e_{1}, e_{2},
d_{1}, d_{2}, b_{1}, b_{2} with
point O.
3.3. Measure the distance 3.0÷4.0 cm from point A down the line AD, mark point as k.
3.4. Measure the distance 1.0÷2.0 cm right horizontal from point k right horizontal, mark point as k_{1}.
3.5. Measure distance 3.0÷4.0 cm from point B down the line BC, mark point as k_{2}.
3.6. Connect the point k_{1} by straight lines with points a_{1} and b_{1}, draw lines k_{1}a_{1} and draw lines k_{1}b_{1}.
3.7. Connect the point k_{2} by straight line with point a_{2}, draw line k_{2}a_{2}.
3.8. Measure the distance 1.0 cm from point D right, mark point as k_{3}.
3.9. Measure the distance 1.0 cm from point k_{3} vertically upwards, mark point as k_{4}.
3.10. Connect the point k_{4} by straight line with point b_{2}, draw line k_{4}b_{2}.
3.11. Connect the point k_{4} by straight line with point d_{1}, draw line k_{4}d_{1}.
3.12. Draw a bisector of angle d_{2}Ce_{2} , on the bisector measure distance of a point C 3.0÷3.5 cm, mark point as k_{5}.
3.13. Draw a curve smooth line through points e_{2} k_{5} d_{2}.
Fig. 2
4. Drawing the front piece of the belt bra (Fig. 3).
4.1. Make line segment from a point е_{2} upwards on line е_{2}е_{1} having a size equal a line segment е_{1}к_{2}, mark a point as P.
4.2. Measure the distance 0.5÷1.0 cm from the point P right horizontally, mark point as P_{1}. If clasp is ahead, measure distance 1.0 cm or more, depending on the desired width of the clasp.
4.3. Draw a vertical straight line P_{1}P_{3} from the point P_{1} down. Point P_{3} is located below the line DC to distance the width of the belt under the breast, the minimum width is 3.0 cm, the maximum width - up to the waist.
4.4. Draw a straight line P_{3}P_{4 }from the point P_{3} left horizontally having size equal PP_{1} + Cd_{2} + d_{1}k_{4} = 1.0 + 6.0 + 8.0 = 15.0 cm.
4.5. Draw up a perpendicular P_{4}P_{5} from the point P_{4} to the intersection with the line CD.
4.6. Draw the contour line of the belt under the breast through points P e_{2} k_{5} d_{2} d_{1} P_{5} P_{4} P_{3} P_{1} P.
Fig. 3
5. Drawing of side belt bra (Fig. 4).
5.1. Draw a rectangle A_{1}B_{1}C_{1}D_{1}.
A_{1}B_{1} = D_{1}C_{1} = Hgc4 - P_{4}P_{3} = 42.5 – 15.0 = 27.5 cm
A_{1}D_{1} = B_{1}C_{1} = P_{5}P_{4} + k_{4}b_{2} + b_{1}k_{1} = 3.0 + 6.0 + 4.0 = 13.0 cm
5.2. Measure the distance 3.0 cm from point D_{1} up line D_{1}A_{1}, mark point as P_{6}.
5.3. Connect points P_{6} and B_{1} by straight dotted line, this line divide into 3 parts, from the right point of division on the perpendicular down measure distance 1.0 cm, from the left point down measure distance 0.5 cm.
5.4. Connect points B_{1} (1,0) (0,5) P_{6} by curve smooth line.
5.5. Measure the distance 4.0÷5.0 cm from the point P_{6} to the right along the smooth curve line and draw mark. To the right of this mark for belt bra will be sewn straps of a bra.
5.6. You can reduce line segment D_{1}C_{1} for width of clasps, if clasp is back of bra.
Fig. 4
6. Modeling of bra with a сup of three lobes (Fig. 5, 6, 7).
6.1. Divided each line side lobes b_{1}O, Oe_{1}, b_{2}O, Oe_{2}, Od_{1}, Od_{2 } into two equal parts, define the deflection in each points of dividing on distance 0.3÷0.5 cm. Draw smooth curve lines of side lobes through these points of deflection.
6.2. Close a tuck a_{1}Oa_{2} .
6.3. Define the upper part of the cup of bra via contour line through points O b_{1 }k_{1 }a k_{2 }e_{1 }O. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out the two pieces bra of the base fabric and the two pieces bra of the lining fabric.
6.4. Define the side lower lobe cup of bra via contour line through points O d_{1 }k_{4 }b_{2}_{ }O. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out the two pieces bra of the base fabric and the two pieces bra of the lining fabric.
6.5. Define the front lower lobe cup of bra via contour line through points O d_{2 }e_{2}_{ }O. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by line d_{2}e_{2}_{. }Cut out the two pieces bra of the base fabric and the two pieces bra of the lining fabric.
6.6. Define the front piece of the belt bra via contour line through points P P_{1 }P_{3 }P_{4 }P_{5 }P (Fig. 7). Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out one piece bra of the base fabric and one piece bra of the lining fabric.
6.7. Define the side piece of belt bra via contour line through points P_{6 }B_{1 }C_{1 }D_{1 }P_{6} (Fig. 7). Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out two pieces bra of the base fabric.
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
7. Modeling of the cup bra having two pieces and one vertical seam (Fig. 8,9).
7.1. Divide each line side lobes of bra a_{1}O, Od_{1}, a_{2}O, Od_{2} into two equal parts; define the deflection in each point of dividing on distance 0.3÷0.5 cm. Draw smooth curve lines of side lobes through these deflection points.
7.2. Close tucks b_{1}Ob_{2} and e_{1}Oe_{2}.
7.3. Define the side lobe of cup bra via contour line through points O a_{1 }b k_{4 }d_{1}_{ }O. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by line k_{4}d_{1}_{. }Cut out two pieces bra of the base fabric and two pieces bra of the lining fabric.
7.4. Define the front lobe of cup bra via contour line through points O a_{2 } k_{2} e d_{2}_{ }O. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out two pieces bra of the base fabric and two pieces bra of the lining fabric.
7.5. Drawing belt of bra, see Fig. 7.
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
8. Modeling of the belt of bra having size up to the waist line (Fig. 10, 11)
8.1. Calculate total width of tucks (TWT) on the waist line
TWT = Hgc4 - Hgw = 42.5 – 38.0 = 4.5 cm
8.2. Distribute TWT as follows:
- in a side seam at the waist line 3.0 cm (from the front part of the belt 1.5 cm and from
side part of the belt 1.5 cm),
- in the middle seam on the back 1.5 cm.
For large values of TWT on the line in the middle P_{1}P_{3}
to perform the seam and to remove part of TWT in this seam.
8.3. Make the width of the belt P_{5}P_{4 }under the chest to the waist equal Bw = 20.0 cm (Fig. 10).
8.4. Calculate the width of the side part of the belt (see paragraph 5).
A_{1}D_{1} = B_{1}C_{1} = P_{5}P_{4} + k_{4}b_{2} + b_{1}k_{1} = 20.0 + 6.0 + 4.0 = 30.0 cm
8.5. Drawing the tucks at the waist line:
- measure the distance 1.5 cm from the point P_{4} right, mark a point as M,
- point M connect with point P_{5} by straight line,
- measure the distance 1.5 cm from the point C_{1} left, mark a point as M_{1},
point M_{1} connect with point B_{1}, by straight line,
- measure the distance 1.5 cm from the point D_{1} right, mark a point as M_{2},
point M_{2} connect with point P_{6}, by straight line,
8.6. Define the front part of the belt bra via contour line through points P P_{1 }P_{3 }M P_{5 }P (Fig.11). Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out one piece bra of the base fabric and one piece of the lining fabric.
8.7. Define the side part belt bra via contour line through points B_{1 }M_{1 }M_{2 }P_{6 }B_{1}. Specify the direction of the common thread (dct) by horizontal. Cut out two pieces bra of the base fabric.
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
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Last modified: 21.11.2017