Designing and sewing a classic secret button clasp
The article is an excerpt from Lesson 18, "Making clasps polo (rugby), concealed fasteners and cleats" the second year of study. The article describes the technology of making classic secret button clasp, which was used in the Fashion house city of Gorky-city (now N.Novgorod).
There are several ways to run classic concealed snap buttons. In some cases, concealed is so that facings a product performs the rim of 0.1÷0.2 cm and visible from the front side even on the new product (Photo). In the process of socks, light breeze facings and buttons are visible so that the clasp ceases to be a secret.
The closure made according to this technology, even after many years does not lose its shape and doesn't put the buttons on the display.
The closure is used in the products:
- made of thin suiting and complex fabrics,
- made of thick suiting and coat fabrics with a thin,
- of thick coat fabrics.
Most often this fastener is used in a coat of thick coat fabrics (Photo 1, 3 and 4). The closure may be completely concealed (Photo 1 and 3) or combined: on the one welt button at the top (Photo 2) or group slotted buttons (Photo 4).
Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3
Frame length is determined by the model and depends on the number of buttons. Each button hidden clasp is in his cell, the cell divided between a tack. For ease of buckling for thick fingers length each cell 9,0÷13,0 cm. Length equal to the selected length of the cell, multiplied the number of buttons. For example, the length of the cell 10.0 cm, closure 5 buttons, then the frame length is equal to 10.0 x 5 = 50,0, see the upper and lower cells start loop is located from the edge of the frame at a distance 4,0÷5,0 cm, all other cells in the middle of a loop located in the middle of the cell (Fig.1)
For ease of fastening buttons loops are arranged at an angle of 45 degrees to the line beginning of the loop.
Other geometric parameters of the fasteners depends on thickness of fabric used (table 1).
|Fabric||Width of the seam allowance on the clasp, cm||Width of the inner layer of clasp, cm||Distance from the edge to frame fasteners, cm||Width of the frame clasp, cm||Distance from the frame clasp to the beginning of the loop, cm|
|Thin costume and raincoat fabric||3,0||6,0||1,5||1,0||0,5|
|Tight costume and a thin overcoat fabric||4,0||8,0||2,0||1,5||0,5|
|Thick overcoat fabric||5,0||10,0||2,5||1,5||1,0|
In the example considered the buckle on the product of a dense fabric costume. Button's diameter with regard to thickness is 2.6 cm
1. To prepare facings (Photo 5):
- to glue facings adhesive gasket,
- selection of width 8.0 cm,
- the length of the fasteners depends on the model, in example 2, the buttons, the length of the cell 9,0 cm, then the length of the clasp 9.0 x 2 = 18.0 cm,
buckle is located from the edge of the selection at a distance of 2.0 cm minus 0.2 cm for bend the fabric on the biasin?
- the width of the frame opening is 1.5 cm,
- to draw a frame on the seamy side of the selection size 1.5 to 18.0 cm,
- in the middle of the frame draw a vertical line section without horizontal sides of the frame of 0.7 cm,
from these points draw the triangles of the section.
2. To prepare the lining to the clasp (Photo 6):
- to cut out a lining from lining fabric width is twice the width of the selection plus the seam allowance on the clasp (in the example 16,0+4,0=20.0 cm) and height equal to the height frame fasteners plus 3.0÷4.0 cm (in the example 18,0+4,0=22.0 cm),
- cut to ensure the grain lines on the lining in the direction of the height of the clasp,
- if the lining fabric is thin, glue it on the reverse side of thin knitted adhesive gasket.
Photo 5; Photo 6
3. To prepare stock up for processing clasp (Photo 7):
- on the seamy side glue adhesive gasket,
- from the edge of the right-to-left make measure 0.2 cm for bend and make a basting along the edge of the clasp,
- from this outline to the left make measure 4.0 cm, draw a line and baste of the mid-line,
- from this outline to the right-to-left make measure 8.0 cm, draw and baste line sewing.
4. To prepare the frame for fasteners
4.1. The lining and facings to fold, right sides inside, to sweep along the contour frame. Perform machine stitching along the vertical sides of the frame, making the clip at the beginning and at the end of the line (Photo 8 and 9).
Photo 8 Photo 9
4.2. Cut the frame on the vertical section line and on the sides and top lower triangles, not reaching angles up to 0.1 cm (Photo 10).
4.3.To turn the lining to the seamy side through the cut . The seam allowances along the cutting line not to cross, to leave in its place. The lining from the left side of the frame to steer right, tack the lining to the left seam allowance on frame along the machine stitching. The lining from the right side of the frame to steer left, tack the lining to the right seam allowance on the machine frame along the lines. The right seam allowance on frames to go around the liner, releasing the lining at left the width of the frame (Photo 11). On the fold the right seam allowance to do the basting, fold to steam (Photo 12).
Photo 10 Photo 11
4.4. Straightening the corners of the frame together with the lining on the seamy side, all layers of fabric sweep on the horizontal sides of the frame, pave double machine line on the horizontal sides of the frame, the seams to steam (Photo 12).
4.5. To steam frame with a front and back side, put it under pressure until complete drying (Photo 13 and 14).
Photo 13 Photo 14
4.6. To do machine line on the front side of the left edge of the frame, stepping back to the right of 0.1 cm. Fold the lining from the left edge of the frame to the right. Run machine line on the front side of the right edge of the frame, stepping to the left 0.1 cm or in the groove lines (Photo 15). Remove the basting. On the seamy side of both parts lining straightening the right machinery lines to steam (Photo 16).
Photo 15 Photo 16
5. To perform a loop.
5.1. To mark position of loops and bartacks, in the example, two loops (Photo 17):
- from the right edge of the frame left to right to measure out the distance from the frame fasteners to the beginning loop, in the example 0.5 cm,
- through this point draw a vertical line defining the beginning of the loop,
- on this line to measure the start point of the upper and lower loops at a distance 4,0÷5,0 cm from the corresponding edge of a fastener, in the example, 4.0 cm,
- from start points of the loops at an angle of 45 degrees to a vertical line to draw place a loop length equal to diameter buttons + 0.2 cm increase in the freedom of passage of the buttons, in the example 2,6 + 0,2 = 2,8 cm
- in the example the length of the cell 9,0 cm, so the tack to mark at a distance of 9.0 cm from the beginning of the frame.
5.2. The lining on the left side of the frame bend to the left, so it was not difficult to perform loop. To perform the marking loop. Form loops can be different: with a round hole in the end of the loop or loop lingerie (Photo 18 and 19).
Photo 18 Photo 19
5.3. To perform the line folded in half with the lining on the seamy side at the top and bottom frame, including once on the triangles of the frame (Photo 20 and 21).
5.4. On the front side to do the tack stitch zigzag with a minimum height and width of the stitch (Photo 21 and 22).
Photo 21 Photo 22
6. Connect the facings to the lining (Photo 23 and 24):
- facings and lining fold right sides inwards, to sweep away, and to grind internal side selection with lining,
- to sweep away from the lining, sew the back seam to steam on the edge,
- the seam allowances to seucurity all the slices together on the pad.
7. To connect the floor face with the other part (Photo 23 and 24):
- floor face and other part right sides inside, sweep and sew on the line of departure, providing at 0.2 cm from the side seam to steam,
- the seam allowances to the facings seucurity, to steam, put under a press until dry,
- fold facings to seamy side, having in 0.2 cm of the side, run a basting along the edge of the hull (Photo 25 and 26),
- the edge of a floor face to steam, put under a press until dry,
- run the basting stitch line of other part floor face (Photo 25 and 26),
- to perform decorative stitching along the line of of other part floor face with increased stitch length in example upper thread Gutermann N33 (Photo 27 and 28),
- remove the basting, finally to steam the clasp, put under a press until dry,
- Photo 29 shows the internal decoration of the cells under a loop and button closure.
Photo 23 Photo 24
Photo 25 Photo 26
Photo 27 Photo 28
Copyright © Ludmila Serova
Last modified: 16.10.2020